Runway Report: Paris Fashion Week Spring 2012--Paco Rabanne

Viva Paco!

Paco Rabanne Spring/Summer 2012

Last week, the House of Paco Rabanne showed its first Pret-a-Porter/Ready-to-Wear runway show in a long time. It was a much-anticipated fashion event, even for the jaded Paris Fashion Week crowd.

Manish Arora, Creative Director of Womenswear Collections, Paco Rabanne

The Puig fragrance-and-fashion brands-owned powerhouse hired India-born fashion designer Manish Arora to bring "life" into the Paco Rabanne fashion brand. Arora is famous for his extreme and very directional designs. He's like the "Alexander McQueen of India". So, it make sense that he was chosen. The show? AMAZING!

If you know your fashion history--and you should!--Spanish-born Couturier Paco Rabanne was one of the 1960's Couturiers--like Pierre Cardin--who turned the entire fashion world upside down with his chain-link and metal space-age dresses (above photo). Cut to Spring/Summer 2012--Manish Arora sent out a bevy of sexy dresses and skinny pant looks, filled with all the metal to make Rabanne blush.

Paco Rabanne Spring/Summer 2012

Tight mini dresses with strong shoulder definitions as well as hip-enhancing shapes were abundant. Lots of sequins as well, in studded jackets. Milliner DIVA Philip Treacy created the amazing saucer hats on display and Nicholas Kirkwood designed the crystal-encrusted pumps.

Paco Rabanne Spring/Summer 2012

Paco Rabanne Spring/Summer 2012

Paco Rabanne Spring/Summer 2012

The Finale was NOT TO BE MISSED: A parade of GORGEOUS black models--from Sudan, Martinique, the UK, France--in the most extravagant creations with the undeniable Paco Rabanne stamp! Paco Rabanne was one of those rare Couturiers who worshiped the Black Woman and used black models in many of his shows and so it was wonderful to see the new Creative Director Manish Arora continue this tradition:

The Finale:

Paco Rabanne Spring/Summer 2012

Click Below to Watch the Full Runway Video of Paco Rabanne Spring/Summer 2012:

Runway Report: Paris Fashion Week Spring 2012--Alexander McQueen

Wow.

Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2012

Creative Director and Head Designer for Alexander McQueen, Sarah Burton, showed her latest offering for Spring/Summer 2012 at Paris Fashion Week and one word: Wow. It was as if the Ghost of "Lee" was right there! At first glance, it seemed "Bondage Inspired" (the face masks, the UBER tight corsetry) but in a way it wasn't. As Sarah Burton stated on the McQueen website "I was thinking about a woman as an object of desire. We go to such lengths to adorn ourselves that we almost become our clothes or are taken over by them. This is a collection about excess - an exploration of ideals of beauty at their most extreme.”

It was exquisite and VERY McQueen. The show began with suiting that was T-T-TIGHT. A very strong emphasis on the shoulder as well as the longer skirt length--below the knee (approx 26"-30" from the natural waist) and tiered ruffles at the hem of those skirts. The hips were exaggerated--especially in the Finale Gowns. You know that rule of "Don't put anything there that might make a woman's hips bigger". Sarah Burton doesn't give a DAMN!

Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2012

The brocade and jacquard-like prints were stunning--and done in suitings with ruffled peplums as well as Baby Doll Dresses so romantic and so NOT Bondage.

Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2012

Every single garment was almost Museum-worthy. I doubt that most of these will even make it to your local McQueen boutique (I'll be very surprised if any of these do--maybe the suitings and "toned-down" version of the dresses). But who cares; I can't wait for the next Alexander McQueen Exhibition to see these up close and personal! I'm sure, though--that a lot of the gowns and dresses will make the Red Carpet for sure! Speaking of Red Carpet, lots of lace, impeccable applique, embroidery and high-low gowns (Sorry Miss Kelly Osborne! I know how much she HATES those "Mullet Dresses" on her show Fashion Police--I LOVE them!!!)

Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2012

Besides the "Homage to the Exaggeration of Women" and Bondage sub-theme, the entire show was also based on the Ocean, underwater, and creatures whom live beneath. These were Underwater GODDESSES. The coral-embroidered Baby Dolls and gowns were stupendous.

Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2012

And the Finale Gowns were armored sequined and metallic Bondage-meets-Oceania Empresses. I hope Alexander McQueen was smiling from up there! Well done Sarah Burton. It shook me just a little bit...and I like that!

Click Below for the Full Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2012 Runway Video:

Runway Report: Paris Fashion Week Spring 2012--Christian Dior--Photos + Full Runway Video!

Pretty Dior

Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2012

Paris Fashion Week Spring 2012 continues and up next is the Christian Dior Spring 2012 Collection. Designer Bill Gaytten (John Galliano's right hand for over a decade)--who was tapped as Galliano's replacement after his escandalo--showed his first pret-a-porter (ready to wear) collection for the famed house. How did he do? Well, according to the editors and press, pretty good. The reviews are in and at least, they were better than what he received from his Dior Haute Couture show several months ago.

Dior Creative Director Bill Gaytten

Now, I'm sure you have been keeping up with all the "Who's Going To Design For Dior" DISH, Gaytten was picked as the "replacement" but word has it that his bosses feel it's a "transitional" position. It has been rumored that possibly Marc Jacobs might take over the Creative Director position. I've read this, so I'm sure Bill has too. It it said that contingent to taking the job, Jacobs would need (among other things, MULTI-MILLIONS!) to bring his entire team as well. Makes sense. But where does that leave Mr. Gaytten. Who knows. As a result of this "I don't know how long I will have my job" situation, Gaytten and his design team, did a just-very-nice job. No earth-shaking editorially-KRAZEE garments here. Just pretty clothes. Very "Lady Dior". Very sellable, which should make the execs happy. But let's be honest, the House of Dior doesn't really care if the clothes sell. It's ALL about the perfumes, sunglasses, and purses darling.

Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2012

But back to Gaytten's collection: These were dresses, jackets, skirts, that one could actually SEE in the the Christian Dior boutiques--as opposed to what Galliano did--most of that was Runway-only (which made for great WWD covers and lots and lots of press--good or bad--which in the end, sold more perfumes and sunglasses!). For Spring 2012, Gaytten showed the famed Dior Bar jacket, the late 40's/early 50's style dirndl and pleated full skirts. The Pretty lady-like sheath dresses. Reds, bold prints, bolder sequins and very Upper Class French Aristocrat styles: First Lady of France Carla Bruni-Sarkozy. Totally.

Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2012

Capelet dresses were important, especially in light and airy gauze's, chiffon's and organza's.

Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2012

In the end of the Christian Dior Spring 2012 Runway show, supermodel Karlie Kloss (far right) sauntered out in a beautiful black lace and chiffon high-necked gown with a sheer single-layer floor-length skirt. As she turned around, all you could focus on was, well, her cheeks--her derrière. It was perfect, of course. Hello, it's Karlie Kloss. But many an editor couldn't help but wonder if showing her "you-know-what" as the FINAL vision one saw in his show--was a subliminal sign to his bosses...

Click Below for the Full Runway Show of Christian Dior Spring 2012:

Runway Report: D&G Spring 2012: Final Show and Final Collection!

Ciao D&G!

D&G Spring 2012

Days ago, during Milan Fashion Week, Designers Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana showed their latest Spring 2012 offering for the "lower line" D&G. They also announced that this would be the last season for D&G . According to the designers, D&G will now be merged with it's main signature line Dolce & Gabbana.

Designers Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana, waiving "Ciao" to D&G

It seems a bit odd since from what industry experts say, it is a cash cow for the company. Many buyers were heard saying that in fact, they buy little of the signature line (or at least not consistently) but ALWAYS order EVERY season something from D&G. But the statement Domenico and Stefano released said that the move was in order to give "even more strength and energy to our collections".

D&G Spring 2012

This final collection was "Scarf happy". In continuing with the same scarf-print motif of their recent menswear Collection, the clothing was an explosion of The Foulard. It was very Versace meets Hermes meets Lily Pulitzer and so retro 1994 in its over-the-top in-your-face don't-look-for-solids here vibe. Frankly I don't see why Hermes doesn't do a Runway Presentation for their Ready-to-Wear shows just like this! I thought it was great! And so ON TREND since it's ALL ABOUT bold, colorful prints come next Spring/Summer.

D&G Spring 2012

There were mini dresses, bandeau tops, blouses, pajama pants, shorts, maxi-dresses, shoes: EVERYTHING had the SCARF Crazy Stamp.

D&G Spring 2012

I have a feeling that it will be a BIG hit when it hits the stores come next year and we will see LOTS of these prints on the red carpet...

Click Below for the D&G Spring 2012 Full Runway Show Video:

Runway Report: Milan Men's Fashion Week D&G Spring 2012

Foulard Power!

St. Tropez Brunch: D&G Menswear Spring 2012

The design duo of Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana showed their latest offering for the MENSSSES during Milan Menswear Spring 2012 Fashion Week for both their lines, including the lower D&G line which I am spotlighting here. For Spring 2012, it was all about the foulard--or printed scarf--it seemed to be the focal point and inspiration for this collection. Lots of silk fabrics, a relaxed proportion and silhouette.

Hugh Hefner Meets 80's Versace Poster Boy: D&G Menswear Spring 2012

Low-slung and LONG crotch/rise were the operative words here in terms of pants and trousers and jeans; the "carrot" style (long dropped crotch, loose at the hips, more fitted toward the leg and ankle) is still the go to look for D&G. Loving the colored driving moccasins and Top-Sider-esque shoe styles (just like in the Dsquared2 Spring 2012 Collection).

Vintage (early 1990's) Versace Ad, featuring Supermodels Nadege, Helena Christensen and a VERY young Niki Taylor

The printed shirts are VERY Versace circa 1992. I had a BLOUSON silk printed jacket back in the day (just like the one below at the far right) and I think it was sold in a "Lawn" sale many many many years ago. Now, I'm bummed I didn't keep it!

PJ's For The Summer: D & G Menswear Spring 2012

And if Domenico and Stefano have their way, it's NO to Speedo and Si, to silk printed "Board Shorts" with denim waistbands come next Spring/Summer 2012. These silk boxer/board shorts were very cute but they reminded me of pajamas one would have chopped off and turned into shorts (maybe that's the point NICK!!!). Well, at least that's what they would look like on me if I ever attempted that look. I'll leave that to you; the young Euro Boys...

Click Below for Full Runway Video of D & G Spring 2012:

Paris Pret-a-Porter Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2011: Louis Vuitton, Chanel--Pics + Full Runway Videos!

More Paris Fall/Winter 2011 Collections Photo & Runway Video Highlights: Hotel Vuitton, SUPERMODELS are BACK...and so is SPENDING Millions on a show + Lagerfeld's "Dark & Foggy" Fashion World...

Naomi Brings Your Luggage Up: Louis Vuitton Fall/Winter 2011

Louis Vuitton Fall/Winter 2011:

May I Take Your Whip? Louis Vuitton Fall/Winter 2011

Paris Pret-a-Porter Fall/Winter 2011 Fashion Week continued this past week and here I highlight two "Biggies": Louis Vuitton and Chanel. Marc Jacobs, Creative Director/Designer for Louis Vuitton was in a "Logo Naughty" kind of mood. As guests arrived for the show, they were greeted by uniformed French maids. Soon people dubbed this the "Louis Vuitton Hotel" collection. For this collection, Jacobs was thinking of a hotel where "things happen", fetishism, the sketchy guests, Couture Chambermaids who see EVERYTHING but say NOTHING: "We were thinking about obsession, fetishism and we thought about an old hotel, with its chambermaids and the affairs that go on there, the crimes and scandals. And we just wanted to reveal all the amazing creatures who passed through there," he said.

Welcome to Hotel Vuitton: Louis Vuitton Fall/Winter 2011

The collection was INCREDIBLE--from the looks of the video and photos. Great clothes featuring COLOR (yeayy!!!) and luxe fabrications and well-tailored fits. Of course, the accessories were TO D.I.E. (scroll below!). Vuitton, Inc. spared no expense on this show: There were old-style elevators which individually brought up all the models, and speaking of models:

Checking In: Supermodel Amber Valletta, Louis Vuitton Fall/Winter 2011

The Supermodel Brigade was out in fine form. Naomi Campbell, Amber Valletta, Carmen Kass, Carolyn Murphy, Stella Tennant, Kate Moss, to name a few. If your keeping a tab, that's about $60,000 (at least!) already spent--and we're not adding the elevators! Whatever happened to those "recessionista" Gallery-style more intimate shows? Not when you're an almost-$20 BILLION dollar brand like Vuitton darling!

You Better Leave a Tip: Supermodel Mariacarla Boscono, Louis Vuitton Fall/Winter 2011

6AM Walk of Shame Ensemble: Supermodel Kate Moss, Louis Vuitton

Luxe Handcuffs: Louis Vuitton Fall/Winter 2011

Le Must Shoe: Louis Vuitton Fall/Winter 2011

I Want That Hat! Louis Vuitton Fall/Winter 2011

Louis Vuitton by Marc Jacobs Fall/Winter 2011 Full Runway Show:

Chanel Fall/Winter 2011:

Freja Man-Drag: Opening Look from Chanel Fall/Winter 2011

Now, speaking of multi-billion dollar brands, wait until you see the latest Chanel runway show and that opening (full video at the end of posting here) . For the latest Fall/Winter 2011 Chanel Collection, Designer Karl Lagerfeld is said to have been in a dark and somber mood and the runway stage--if you could call it that, reflected it: It was a foggy forest on a bed of still-smoldering scorched earth with rocks and faux coal. It was Fashion post Volcanic Eruption! Who knew clothes could look this chic after a natural Karl Lagerfeld-infused disaster.

Nordic Tweed: Chanel Fall/Winter 2011

Lots of grays, blacks, torn and tattered boucles, with a pop of burnt red here and there. There was again this division of Male-female, common in many a collection this season. It seems for the Chanel girl, Daywear means to bring out your "Inner Fashion Testosterone" and yet for Evening, it's time to be a girl again! Oh and if you are a Chanel Man, well...scroll down and take a look...

Volcanic Hunting Season: Chanel Fall/Winter 2011

Knit Red Carpet: Chanel Fall/Winter 2011

Post Eruption Sequins: Chanel Fall/Winter 2011

I'm So Mad I Have To Wear This Pretty Dress After A Natural Disaster: Chanel Fall/Winter 2011

Man Survives Forest Volcano Eruption: Chanel Fall/Winter 2011

Chanel by Karl Lagerfeld Fall/Winter 2011 Full Runway Show:

Paris Pret-a-Porter Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2011: Mugler, Balenciaga

80's Divas, Lady Gaga, Latex, Stomping Platforms, Flower Power Dressing...

Strike A Pose: Lady Gaga making an entrance on the Mugler Catwalk, Mugler Fall/Winter 2011

Mugler Womenswear Fall/Winter 2011:

The Real Mugler...and His Muse: Designer Thierry Mugler and Jerry Hall

The Mugler Tough 80's Chic Power Diva Legacy Lives On: And for 2011, it's now being headed by Lady Gaga's Stylist/Creative Director, Mr. Nicola Formichetti, and his co-designer Sébastien Peigné. This was the most anticipated show of Paris Fashion Week. The scene was Church-like; columns and long walkway. Models sauntered and struck DIVA almost-Drag-Queen poses. The word "Fierce" would come to mind as much as that word is soooo two years ago. Lots of very TIGHT suiting, shoulder pads that would rival a Quarterback, heels so high MANY a model stumbled (they really should have gotten Drag Queens, they might have done a better job!) and enough Latex to make 1000 Condoms. The B**** is Back. And in the form of Mugler Fall/Winter 2011. Oh, and did I mention Miss Lady Gaga modeled??

Cover The Sisters: Mugler Fall/Winter 2011

Style.com summed it up this way: The collective vibe as Gaga's magic spell dispersed and the crowd shuffled into the night was one of bemused disappointment. Backstage, though, was another story. There, Formichetti was surrounded by the kind of clamoring mosh pit you're more likely to associate with his collaborator. "Fun is making a comeback," he said. "Mugler was a fashion god for me. It was more than fashion, though, it was entertainment." In that regard—and it's not one you can dismiss easily in our wired world—Formichetti and co. nailed it. But will Gaga be available next season? Maybe so. Formichetti also informed us that his biggest fan has already "bought the entire collection in every color."

Stylists Will Gag: Mugler Fall/Winter 2011

Catsuit Fashionanimal: Mugler Fall/Winter 2011

Bra Not Needed: Mugler Fall/Winter 2011

Joan Collins Who? Mugler Fall/Winter 2011

Gaga For Runway: Lady Gaga in Mugler Fall/Winter 2011 Finale Look

Click HERE to watch a Suzy Menkes of the International Herald Tribune interview Lady Gaga and Nicola Formichetti

Mugler Womenswear Fall/Winter 2011 Full Runway Video:

Balenciaga Fall/Winter 2011

My Lunch Appointment Is Late: Balenciaga Fall/Winter 2011

For Fall/Winter 2011, Balenciaga Designer/Creative Director Nicolas Ghesquière softened his muse: There were pretty flower print dresses and skirts folded and architecturally draped. There was knit mesh and leather jackets and a defined sense of playing with proportions. The shot of magenta, orange, and purples were fabulous--amongst the black. Just from seeing the photos and the runway video: I LOVED it! This is modern directional sportswear in a very LUXE high-end way. Ghesquière is way too cool for school--as they say.

Who Is Buying Me Dinner: Balenciaga Fall/Winter 2o11

Bubblegum Gallery Opening: Balenciaga Fall/Winter 2011

THE Coat of the Season: Balenciaga Fall/Winter 2011

Color Blocked Mademoiselle: Balenciaga Fall/Winter 2011

Balenciaga Fall/Winter 2011 Full Runway Video: