Runway Report: Paris Fashion Week Spring 2012--Paco Rabanne

Viva Paco!

Paco Rabanne Spring/Summer 2012

Last week, the House of Paco Rabanne showed its first Pret-a-Porter/Ready-to-Wear runway show in a long time. It was a much-anticipated fashion event, even for the jaded Paris Fashion Week crowd.

Manish Arora, Creative Director of Womenswear Collections, Paco Rabanne

The Puig fragrance-and-fashion brands-owned powerhouse hired India-born fashion designer Manish Arora to bring "life" into the Paco Rabanne fashion brand. Arora is famous for his extreme and very directional designs. He's like the "Alexander McQueen of India". So, it make sense that he was chosen. The show? AMAZING!

If you know your fashion history--and you should!--Spanish-born Couturier Paco Rabanne was one of the 1960's Couturiers--like Pierre Cardin--who turned the entire fashion world upside down with his chain-link and metal space-age dresses (above photo). Cut to Spring/Summer 2012--Manish Arora sent out a bevy of sexy dresses and skinny pant looks, filled with all the metal to make Rabanne blush.

Paco Rabanne Spring/Summer 2012

Tight mini dresses with strong shoulder definitions as well as hip-enhancing shapes were abundant. Lots of sequins as well, in studded jackets. Milliner DIVA Philip Treacy created the amazing saucer hats on display and Nicholas Kirkwood designed the crystal-encrusted pumps.

Paco Rabanne Spring/Summer 2012

Paco Rabanne Spring/Summer 2012

Paco Rabanne Spring/Summer 2012

The Finale was NOT TO BE MISSED: A parade of GORGEOUS black models--from Sudan, Martinique, the UK, France--in the most extravagant creations with the undeniable Paco Rabanne stamp! Paco Rabanne was one of those rare Couturiers who worshiped the Black Woman and used black models in many of his shows and so it was wonderful to see the new Creative Director Manish Arora continue this tradition:

The Finale:

Paco Rabanne Spring/Summer 2012

Click Below to Watch the Full Runway Video of Paco Rabanne Spring/Summer 2012:

Runway Report: Paris Fashion Week Spring 2012--Alexander McQueen

Wow.

Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2012

Creative Director and Head Designer for Alexander McQueen, Sarah Burton, showed her latest offering for Spring/Summer 2012 at Paris Fashion Week and one word: Wow. It was as if the Ghost of "Lee" was right there! At first glance, it seemed "Bondage Inspired" (the face masks, the UBER tight corsetry) but in a way it wasn't. As Sarah Burton stated on the McQueen website "I was thinking about a woman as an object of desire. We go to such lengths to adorn ourselves that we almost become our clothes or are taken over by them. This is a collection about excess - an exploration of ideals of beauty at their most extreme.”

It was exquisite and VERY McQueen. The show began with suiting that was T-T-TIGHT. A very strong emphasis on the shoulder as well as the longer skirt length--below the knee (approx 26"-30" from the natural waist) and tiered ruffles at the hem of those skirts. The hips were exaggerated--especially in the Finale Gowns. You know that rule of "Don't put anything there that might make a woman's hips bigger". Sarah Burton doesn't give a DAMN!

Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2012

The brocade and jacquard-like prints were stunning--and done in suitings with ruffled peplums as well as Baby Doll Dresses so romantic and so NOT Bondage.

Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2012

Every single garment was almost Museum-worthy. I doubt that most of these will even make it to your local McQueen boutique (I'll be very surprised if any of these do--maybe the suitings and "toned-down" version of the dresses). But who cares; I can't wait for the next Alexander McQueen Exhibition to see these up close and personal! I'm sure, though--that a lot of the gowns and dresses will make the Red Carpet for sure! Speaking of Red Carpet, lots of lace, impeccable applique, embroidery and high-low gowns (Sorry Miss Kelly Osborne! I know how much she HATES those "Mullet Dresses" on her show Fashion Police--I LOVE them!!!)

Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2012

Besides the "Homage to the Exaggeration of Women" and Bondage sub-theme, the entire show was also based on the Ocean, underwater, and creatures whom live beneath. These were Underwater GODDESSES. The coral-embroidered Baby Dolls and gowns were stupendous.

Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2012

And the Finale Gowns were armored sequined and metallic Bondage-meets-Oceania Empresses. I hope Alexander McQueen was smiling from up there! Well done Sarah Burton. It shook me just a little bit...and I like that!

Click Below for the Full Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2012 Runway Video:

Runway Report: Paris Fashion Week Spring 2012--Chanel

Karl "Prospero" and his Underwater Runway Extravaganza:

Chanel Spring/Summer 2012

Two days ago, Karl Lagerfeld showed his beautiful Chanel Spring/Summer 2012 Collection during Paris Fashion Week. He transformed the Grand Palais--the site of all his runway shows, into a magical underwater world. Just wait until you see the beginning of the video below. The stage is INSANE! All I kept thinking about was "Wow, look what perfumes and purses can buy you!". The collection, which consisted of over 8o looks (!), was a success, according to all who were there. He began with modern interpretations of the Chanel suit, in soft tweeds, boucle's, in white, cremes, light lemons, pastel-y pinks, turquoise and black.

Chanel Spring/Summer 2012

Lots of Spring-like prints, chiffon's, fluttery ruffle dresses and blouses. Shoes were either sandals or flat booties in leather and metallics. NO heels in sight. He also showed some fabulous swimsuits toward the end which you can see in the runway video. They looked like "Sports Illustrated Mermaids" rising from the sea!

Chanel Spring/Summer 2012

For evening, it was relaxed, yet very LUXE glamour, with printed silk dresses, lots hitting "tea"-length with sequin embellishments. Stiffer silk gazar's, organza's, and/or iridescent satins added lots of texture and an architectural element. Lots of shoulder interest--which remains a strong trend.

Chanel Spring/Summer 2012

Chanel Spring/Summer 2012

Also, look for the "Voluminous Sheath" where it's fitted up top but then softly leads into interesting shapes from the high-waist down. All in all--at least from seeing the photos and the video--a beautiful, modern collection. Bravo Karl and his team! You'll probably see ten out of the 80+ looks in the stores come next Spring , but who cares, the show was glorious! Speaking of the show--did I mention Florence Welch of Florence and The Machine performed. Yep. Again, what perfumes and purses can buy you darlings!

Click Below for the Full Chanel Spring/Summer 2012 Runway Video:

Runway Report: Balenciaga Spring 2012--Broad Shoulders & Collapsing Benches!

After Milan...comes Paris Fashion Week-Spring 2012

Balenciaga Spring 2012

Designer Nicolas Ghesquière showed his latest collection for the famed House of Balenciaga in Paris today. According to some attendees, several of the audience benches collapsed--yes COLLAPSED--as people were taking their seats. Then, a voice came through the loudspeaker telling everyone to just "Stand Up".

Salma Hayek, at the Balenciaga Spring 2012 Show, sporting a bandage over her torn ligament (not from the collapsing benches!)

So, yes, that's how everyone got to see the newest collection, even A-List front-row celebs like Salma Hayek and Catherine Deneuve and yes, Anna Wintour was standing too! What did they see? Lots of Cristobal Balenciaga-esque shapes but modernized for 2012. Structurally sturdy yet still floaty skirts, dresses and architectural jackets...

Balenciaga Spring 2012

Bright bold colors--navy, magenta, gold, brick red, bronze, and prints--both geometric and Art-inspired. Shoulders: Out to THERE! Sloping at times. The big bold tops were perfectly matched with slimmer above-the-ankle "cigarette" pants that looked effortless and oh-so-chic.

Balenciaga Spring 2012

Easy-breezy asymmetrical tops. Contrast patch pocket details that if any other designer did them, would look almost "Fashion-School Amateur" but Ghesquiere knows how to make it all look Ultra Luxe Sporty.

Balenciaga Spring 2012

Cristobal Balenciaga 1967, Sik Gazar One Seam Gown with Matching Hat

The final dresses, in all the color-and-print-blocking glory, as well as with all those stunning sequins are sure to end up in all the top fashion magazine editorials. And then there were those hats: A major nod to the House's founding couturier for sure.

Click Below for the Full Runway Video of Balenciaga Spring 2012:

Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2011 Highlights--Photos & Runway Video: Alexander McQueen, Dior, YSL and Louis Vuitton!!

McQueen Warrior Goddesses, Sailor Girlfriends, YSL Cigarette Girls and Vuitton Asianas

Ombré Queen: Fan-pleated, dip-dyed and twisted organza gown, Alexander McQueen Spring 2011

Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2011:

Office Diva: Fitted suit with feathered collar, Alexander McQueen Spring 2011

As we know, after the untimely passing of designer Alexander McQueen 9 months ago, his right hand, Sarah Burton was in charge of following in his creative genius footsteps. Burton had already been actually designing the line--along with Alexander McQueen for a while so it was a good guess that there wouldn't be a "Design Earthquake" occurring with this or any near-future collection.

Butch McQueen: Pant suit with gold embroidered leaf detail, Alexander McQueen Spring 2011

Spring/Summer 2011 was the first full runway show outing for Burton and by all accounts, it was a sublime outing. All the looks were VERY McQueen: The sexy, strong corseted dresses, the bold, whimsical yet mysterious prints, the Nouveau-Renaissance Warrior Goddess suiting, powerful shoes, and almost Angel-like gowns...

High-Low: White gown from Alexander McQueen Spring 2011

There was a flora-and-fauna disposition throughout the collection, from the pheasant-feathered skirts to leather leaves, golden wheat sheath dresses and raffia-covered brocades.

Kaleidoscopic: Printed fit-and-flare cocktail dress, Alexander McQueen Spring 2011

There's plenty here for McQueen Muse--and beer heiress--Daphne Guinness to like, as well as Young Hollywood Starlets, the likes of Carey Mulligan and Keira Knightley to wear on the red carpet. Designer Sarah Burton has big shoes to fill, but if this collection is any indication, she's on the right path.

Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2011 Runway Show:

Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2011:

Shipwrecked: White parka, Polynesian-inspired printed dress and black booties with white scrunchie socks, Dior Spring 2011

Ahoy Sailor! Yep, for Spring 2011 John Galliano's Dior girl is waiting for her sailor boyfriend to return home. Either that, or the Dior girl is his mistress at one of his many port towns. Now, he wouldn't be just a Sailor if she could afford Dior. And she wouldn't just be any girlfriend or mistress: She would be a very EXPENSIVE one. Models stomped the catwalk in sailor hats and ultra feminine frocks constructed from silk chiffon, crepe and georgette. Colorful "island" prints dominated. The hairstyles were definitely Retro as well: Bangs and turned under dos, very Betty Paige Pin-Up.

Calendar Pin Up: Model Chanel Iman works these printed shorts and twist-knot blouse, Dior Spring 2011

Of course, the clothes were great but the stars, were the accessories. Most fashion insiders know that Fashion Houses like Dior only make their money in purses, sunglasses, shoes and perfumes (for the most part). Here were two of my faves from this collection:

The highest leather Bootie pumps featuring Espadrille-like heels, buckles and "scrunchie socks" were so chic.....

And this royal blue Lady Dior patent leather bag will be a must-have for any Sailor's girlfriend with an extra $2500 in her--or her man's--checking account.

Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2011 Runway Show (DO NOT MISS John Galliano's end-of-the-show walk!):

Yves Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2011:

Le Smoking 2011: Danish Model Freja Beha Erichsen in a black center-front slit gown, YSL Spring 2011

During this past Spring 2011 Fashion Week Season, so many designers--Jason Wu and Marc Jacobs to name a few, were inspired by the Master, Yves Saint Laurent. I think a lot had to do with this Summer's YSL Retrospective in Paris. I was lucky enough to have gone and yes, it was AMAZING!

Ready for my Cointreau Digestif: Aquamarine printed silk dress, YSL Spring 2011

So, since YSL was in the "air", it was up to the actual designer for the House of Yves Saint Laurent, Stefano Pilati, to really show everyone how it's done. And he did. It was an "Homage to the Master"--with plenty of transparency, flounces and ruffles, strong tailoring and even some ensembles resembling the iconic "Le Smoking".

Olé: Strapless ruffled black and fuchsia belted dress, YSL Spring 2011

But at the same time, Pilati brought the YSL woman to this decade, modernized her a little bit and added very directional pieces that she would love. I'm sure Monsieur Yves was smiling up in Heaven.

YSL Spring/Summer 2011 Runway Show:

Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2011

Like Dior, Louis Vuitton is one of those Fashion Houses that makes its bread-and-butter not on the clothes but on it's purses, luggage and sunglasses (to name just a few). I certainly got it when I visited the Paris flagship on the Champs Elysees over the Summer and saw the massive throngs of people BUYING EVERYTHING on the first and second purse-and-luggage floors. The clothing area, alas, was empty.

But Louis Vuitton designer Marc Jacobs has the envious job of having the luxury to push the boundaries of fashion with each new collection. For Spring 2011, he decided to go to the Far East. This makes sense since that's where the new, much-sought after Luxury Goods client is living. But it could be argued as to why a Millionaire's wife in Shanghai would want to dress up like she's in costume? Irregardless, there was lots of Asiana references as seen above.

There was also lots of transparency and high slits to you-know-where. It was a bold, colorful and a visually entertaining collection. Jacobs also got some Top Supermodels of the past to WORK the runway including a red-haired Carmen Kass, as well as Alek Wek (seen above).

and Kristen McMenamy (above) who ended the show in high-waisted black satin trousers and a zebra-print jersey top. Attagurl!

Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2011 Runway Show: