Runway Report: Versace Spring/Summer 2012

Grommets, Studs, Seashell Motifs...It's Versace 1992 all over again...And I LOVE IT!

Versace Spring 2012

Last week, Donatella Versace showed her latest Spring 2012 Collection for the House of Versace in the gorgeous garden at the Via Gesù show space. The collection was very "Retro Versace". Like I had seen it before somewhere...

It's All About 1992: Versace Couture 1992 above on Naomi, Stephanie and Yasmeen--and on Lady Gaga

I had. The Versace Spring 2012 Collection had many motifs and style elements from that much-Lady Gaga loved Versace Couture 1992 time period (she's been spotted wearing A LOT from those collections lately). The grommets, the silver and gold studs, the heavily cluttered sequins, the seashell prints and motifs...

Seashell Retro: Versace Spring/Summer 1992

Donatella went back to the Versace Archives (as well she should, maybe inspired by Miss Gaga) and really referenced those years in particular for this collection. And what a surprise, they looked "fresh and new", especially to those "kids" who were probably 3 when those collections came out! But I remember darlings--I could never forget Naomi Campbell, Stephanie Seymour, Karen Mulder and Yasmeen Ghauri in those seashell printed swimsuits and those leather and gold studded gowns!!!

Versace Spring 2012

But back to the present: Versace Spring 2012 showed lots of light "candy sorbet" colors--the light blues, the lemon yellows, the aqua-greens. Lots of luscious draped and shirred silk jersey and silk chiffon added to the "prettiness".

Versace Spring 2012

And yes, those 1992'esque black gold studded skirts and tops and Seashell-motif sequined applique. Donatella also played with some asymmetry, especially with chiffon "overlay" that would "half" cover a simple and elegant sheath dress or a skirt.

Versace Spring 2012

Gowns were seductive, sexy and oh-so-Versace Red Carpet. Also in those light candy-sorbet colors. The grommeting and studded sequin detail was followed through to the final runway-stomping gowns. Now speaking of Runway Stomping...There was a "Model Down":


Poor Lindsey Wixson (American, famous for her "bee-stung" lips) came crashing down almost at the end of the Versace Spring 2012 show. Lindsey happens to be one of Donatella's faves--if not her "Muse", but the 17 year old (A Muse at 17??) came tumbling down as she tried to maneuver those towering 8" lucite stilletto wedge platforms.

She did get back up and instead of running as fast as she could out of the runway, she continued her walk with "Victory" thumbs-up hand signs. Nice Recovery Girl!!!!

If you want to see the stumble--and the Entire Versace Spring 2012 Collection Runway Video, Click Below:

Runway Report: Valentino Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2011

Monastic Tsarina Fairytale: Valentino Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2011:

Tsarina Entrance: Valentino Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2011

During the Paris Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2011 Fashion Week several weeks back, along with the usual Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture designers, the House of Valentino ( a Corresponding--i.e. foreign--Member of the Chambre) showed its most recent offering of those rarefied $100,000+ hand-made clothes to editors (Project Runway's Nina Garcia was there in the front row!) bloggers, a Hollywood actress or two (Valentino "muse" Anne Hathaway) and...

Elena Permineva (disguising a slight baby bump), model and wife of Russian Billionaire Alexander Lebedev and Marie Claire Fashion Director Nina Garcia in the background--Valentino Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2011

Yes, some of the multi-millionaire clients who might actually buy! House designers Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli's collection-held at The Hotel Salomon de Rothschild-- had hints of a Fairytale Princess (I believe that had a Tsarina in mind) but also what I noticed from looking at the photos and runway video (below) was also a Monastic tone as well.

Take a Look:

Monastic Couture: Valentino Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2011

A Night at The Opera: Valentino Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2011

The Cape Coat of The Season: Valentino Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2011

A Modern Wedding: Valentino Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2011

Renaissance Charmeuse: Valentino Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2011

Can I Order This with a Lining? Valentino Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2011

Valentino Red: Valentino Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2011

All in all, another beautiful collection from designers Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli who have brilliantly transformed the House of Valentino into something modern without abandoning the legacy of the Master.

Click Below for Full Runway Video of Valentino Fall/Winter 2011:

Runway Report: Paris Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2011 Fashion Week--Jean Paul Gaultier

Black Swans, Biker Tutus, Men in Feathered Skirts, Silk Mousseline Trench Coats, a Cone Bra Wedding Gown and French SuperDiva Mylene Farmer??

Biker Tutu: Jean Paul Gaultier Fall/Winter 2011 Haute Couture

French Fashion Designer Jean Paul Gaultier showed his Fall/Winter 2011/2012 Haute Couture Collection and by the looks of the video and the photos, it was a Not-To-Be-Missed show! The music soundtrack began with the voice of actor Vincent Cassel of the film "Black Swan" instructing his dancers. From that moment--and the first Swan-like feathered headdress--we knew that this collection might have some Ballet tendencies...

PETA-Free Zone: Jean Paul Gaultier Fall/Winter 2011 Haute Couture

As the 60+ look collection materialized, indeed there were strong "Swan Lake" influences: Luxe tutus with mink, silk tulle, leather and wool, full skirts, ribbon-laced "Ballet" platform-pumps.

Also: Lots of Furs--in those "tutu dresses", as well as in parka coats, cape-gowns (above on English Model Erin O'Connor) and just about every other piece in the collection (it's Fall/Winter after all--a very un-politically correct one but still). Gowns featuring Madame Grès-like plisse pleating also showed up, as well as late 70's Disco-Era Divas like this one:

There was also a general undercurrent of a "Look-Back Through the Best of Gaultier" with highlights being all those FABULOUS Trench coats and Variations-on-the-Trench which is a Gaultier Hallmark:

It's Raining Trenches: Two Trench Coat looks from Jean Paul Gaultier Fall/Winter 2011 Haute Couture

My favorite being the GORGEOUS silk mousseline trench gowns with open back on above photos. Continuing with his "Ode to Himself" theme, Gaultier also showed many Menswear Looks--all hand-made Haute Couture naturally. These male DIVOS, stomped the runway in three-inch heel boots with Marabou and Ostrich-trimmed floor-length skirts, asymmetrical cape-jackets, poufy trench coat-gowns (yes, I said POUFY TRENCH COAT GOWNS!) and even a strapless bustier with attached shawl-over "over-gown". Check out les hommes kiddies:

Miss Thang: Gaultier Muse, Model and Collaborator Tanel Bedrossiantz, Jean Paul Gaultier Fall/Winter 2011 Haute Couture

Poufy Officer: Portuguese Model Luis Batalha, Jean Paul Gaultier Fall/Winter 2011 Haute Couture

Bearded Bustier: Model Benjamin Dukhan Jean Paul Gaultier Fall/Winter 2011 Haute Couture

And to put the "Gaultier Cherry" on top of this "Haute Couture Cake", he sent out French-Canadian model Ève Salvail who was definitely NOT typecast as the "White Swan" of the collection. She wore "Le Mariage" (wedding dress) with those iconic Cone-shaped bust cups that put him on the map, via Madonna:

Express Yourself: Model Ève Salvail, Jean Paul Gaultier Fall/Winter 2011 Haute Couture

And speaking of Madonna--his show ended with the "French Madonna" (doesn't it seem as if there's a "Madonna" in EVERY country!), Mylène Farmer:

Comme J'Ai Mal: French Icon-singer Mylene Farmer, Jean Paul Gaultier Fall/Winter 2011 Haute Couture

Who, naturally was THE Black Swan of the show, wearing a fitted black leather jacket, tulle high-low skirt with a very long train (poor thing tripped on it when turning around), and of course, "Swan Lake"-like feathers atop her ginger-colored swept up-do. If this all sounds Trop! ("too much" en francais), then please by all means, see for yourself...

Click Below for Full Runway Video of Jean Paul Gaultier Fall/Winter 2011/12 Haute Couture--Part One:

Jean Paul Gaultier Fall/Winter 2011/12 Haute Couture--Part Two:

Runway Report: Paris Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2011 Fashion Week--Stephane Rolland

Folded, Ribboned, Draped...

Dip-Dyed Canary: Stephane Rolland Fall/Winter 2011 Haute Couture

Stephane Rolland showed his Fall/Winter 2011/2012 Haute Couture Collection in Paris and as usual it was a Masterful display of the drapery, folded and structured modern elegance. His designs are not for the shy woman but more for the UBER chic, Glam Dominatrix Diva. His clients come mainly from Asia and the Middle East and every now and then, you will see a FAB Stephane Rolland Haute Couture creation on the Red Carpet (if we're lucky--he still has to compete with the POWERHOUSE PR Offices of the "biggies": Chanel, Valentino, Dior, etc.). For Fall/Winter, he was inspired by two things: China (smart, since that's where the latest crop of multi-millionaire clients are coming from), which showed up in Pagoda sleeves, Mandarin-like collars, Chinese calligraphy details. Another inspiration was:

Iconic model Carmen Dell'Orefice (seen above at the Stephane Rolland Haute Couture Show with NY socialite/MTV's The City "Elle Magazine intern" Olivia Palermo next to her). The clothes were fabulous by the way. Colors ranged from "Winter White" to deep blacks, violets, muted raspberry and lots of oversized metallic/jeweled embellishments as in belts, neck and bust accents as well as the above mentioned drapes, folds and twisted ribbons that are the "Rolland" hallmarks.

Daywear According to Rolland: Stephane Rolland Fall/Winter 2011 Haute Couture

To start with, there was some "day wear"--OK, forget it, it was more like "Cocktail Hour". But mainly, as always with Rolland, it was about THOSE gowns! Showstoppers. Take a look:

Who Invited Her: Stephane Rolland Fall/Winter 2011 Haute Couture

Shanghai Ball: Stephane Rolland Fall/Winter 2011 Haute Couture

Plunging: Stephane Rolland Fall/Winter 2011 Haute Couture

New Slit: Stephane Rolland Fall/Winter 2011 Haute Couture

Shoulder Padded Grecian Goddess: Stephane Rolland Fall/Winter 2011 Haute Couture

China Calligraphy Couture: Stephane Rolland Fall/Winter 2011 Haute Couture

Be sure not to miss the Final Wedding Gown and how HEAVY it was--so heavy that the model is literally FORCING it to move with all the strength of her 5'11" size 2 frame!!! Bless her heart! (and bless those in the audience trying to cool off from the hot & humid temperatures that were occurring during Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week a couple of weeks back)--click on the video below...

Click Below for Full Runway Video of Stephane Rolland Fall/Winter 2011/12 Haute Couture:

Runway Report: Paris Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2011--Chanel

Bouclé Lamp Shade Couture...

Freja Gives Tweed: Model Freja Bbeha Erichsen in Chanel Fall/Winter 2011 Haute Couture

For Fall/Winter Haute Couture, Karl Lagerfeld, Creative Emperor of the House of Chanel went Dark, moody, and very traditional to the old-school 1920's/1930's aesthetic for Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel. The collection began with lots of those traditional and iconic tweed/bouclé suits which will make his devoted clientele from St. Tropez to Shanghai very happy. Most of these suits featured elbow-length oversized sleeves (as opposed to those super-tight, can-barely-move-my-arm Chanel sleeves). The peplum was a HUGE silhouette detail for this collection, showing up in the suits as well as the gowns toward the end. If it's up to Karl Lagerfeld, the Chanel Couture Woman will be in a "Lamp Shade" mode when it comes to this year's Fall/Winter season.

Lunch Ensemble: Chanel Fall/Winter 2011 Haute Couture

Colors ranged from light gray...to silver gray...to dark gray--as well as black and midnight blue. There were "shots" of fuchsia for the client in need of more color than just four shades of GRAY. And of course, all the expert Lesage (it's owned by Chanel after all!) hand-beading and sequins that Chanel Haute Couture is famous for was there in almost each and every look. Beautifully done and one assumes, terribly costly. But who cares, it is Couture! Doesn't every billionaire's wife need a hand-made tweed suit with hand-beaded Lesage embroidered sequins to wear to her next lunch date at the Hotel Plaza Athenee?? Take a look:

Red Carpet Gray: Chanel Fall/Winter 2011 Haute Couture

Fuchsia Office: Chanel Fall/Winter 2011 Haute Couture

Gown de Peplum: Chanel Fall/Winter 2011 Haute Couture

Going to Hollywood: Chanel Fall/Winter 2011 Haute Couture

Le Sari Mariage: Chanel Fall/Winter 2011 Haute Couture

Click Below for Full Chanel Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2011/12 Runway Show--Part 1:

Chanel Fall/Winter 2011/12 Haute Couture--Part 2:

Runway Report: Paris Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2011--Armani Prive

Le Japonais Couture...

Arigato Armani: Giorgio Armani takes his bow on July 5th at his Armani Prive Fall/Winter 2011 Runway Paris France

Over a week ago--during the Paris Fall/Winter 2011 Haute Couture Fashion Week--Giorgio Armani showed his offering of his Armani Prive collection--yes, the one you will see on big A-List Hollywood stars and yes, the one in which garments are hand-made, made-to-order to the size of the clients and yes, the one where a suit ensemble can put you back about $45,000 and a gown, well...about $100,000. Armani and Armani Prive have been in the news as of late because of the Prince Albert-and-Charlene of Monaco Royal Wedding (Bride wore Armani Prive Custom Wedding Gown) and of course, there were all those Royal Ladies who decided to order some of those $100,000+ aforementioned ensembles (The Belgium Royal contingency LUVS themselves some Armani Prive!!).

Sushi Queen: Armani Prive Fall/Winter 2011

For Fall/Winter 2011, the theme was Hommage au Japon. The collection was heavy on the origami folds, cherry blossom prints and obi belts. Suit ensembles featured cropped pants and nipped-in waist jackets. Plunging and/or asymmetrical necklines accented these as well as those obi belts and origami-style pleating and draping.

Cherry Blossom Suiting: Armani Prive Fall/Winter 2011

The gowns were sumptuous, with silk velvets, oversized orange paillettes, and Japan-inspired flower prints. It's difficult for ANY fashion designer to do Japonais when , well, John Galliano and his now-iconic (and heart-palpating) Dior Haute Couture Spring 2007 Collection of over four years ago, has become THE Fashion Design Guide Rule Book for what Madam Butterfly should look like...but I give Mr. Armani and his Armani Prive Design Team "Nick V." Points for even trying. Take a look:

Little Tokyo Gown: Armani Prive Fall/Winter 2011

Red Carpet Geisha: Armani Prive Fall/Winter 2011

Tunic Couture: Armani Prive Fall/Winter 2011

And then , of course, there were those FABULOUS Philip Treacy hats--this one above being one of my favorites--Can't wait until Princess Beatrice features this one at some event and makes half the Western Hemisphere--as well as East Asia--gasp!


Click Below for Full Armani Prive Fall/Winter 2011 Runway Video: